Braktec BT1C Short clutch or brake Lever easy pull to prevent arm pump GASGAS BT1B

Been riding for years with stock clutch lever but started struggling finger fatigue lately (approaching 50th bday!) tested my new easy clutch lever at Parkwood Enduro on Wed and OMG why did i not buy one years ago. Takes a bit of getting used to and important u understand the principal of operation with biting point much closer to the bar. Found this explanation online and worth reading.... Understanding the design intent can help you with achieving proper adjustment. The stock lever disengages the clutch with finger room between the lever and the bar so the rest of the lever stroke separates the clutch plates further then is absolutely necessary. Because of all this extra slave cylinder throw the position of the engagement point and the end of the lever swing is not critical and adjustment of the stock lever is easy. But the ratio of lever swing to slave cylinder throw is high so the squeeze is hard. My lever moves the slave cylinder roughly half the distance of the stock lever so the ratio of lever swing to slave displacement is lower and results in an easier pull. Because my lever minimizes the clutch plate separation, adjustment of both ends of the lever stroke is more critically precise especially the engagement position. My lever was designed to start from about the same reach position as the stock lever when released and then be squeezed fully to the bar for complete disengagement. The adjustment must start with the point the clutch begins to engage as you release the lever. Obviously you want the clutch to be fully disengaged when the lever is squeezed to the bar. But what is not so obvious is that you also want the clutch to start to engage as close to the bar as possible as you release the lever. The reason is that the lever must swing a minimum distance to allow the clutch spring(s) to fully load the clutch plates. This is the reach distance position. The adjustment for this is the button head cap screw which acts as a lever stop and sets the reach. Getting the engagement position as close to the bar as possible results in the reach distance being minimized. So setting the engagement position is first and is critical. This is why the engine must be hot when starting the adjustment procedure. Because the clutch plate separation distance is minimized, cold tranny oil will cause much more fluid drag between the clutch plates. You would then try to eliminate the cold drag by adjusting the piston rod forward separating the clutch plates more, which means the reach distance will be greater as well. You should expect that the clutch with my lever will drag more when cold. But this will go away when the engine is hot. This should give you a basis for understanding the critical nature of the adjustment procedure on the packaging. If it is followed correctly it should result in proper operation. Adjustment is a common problem since my lever is much more precise to the operating parameters of the clutch then the stock lever but I don't think it is common that people give up and then don't use the lever. Just to make sure you know (and tell your friend) that I have a warranty for "defects in satisfaction" so if the lever does not work out for you then you can return it for a refund. I don't get a lot of returns, but I do get a lot of adjustment questions and once adjustment is achieved people love the lever. The adjustment fasteners were Loctited at assembly but with the amount of adjustment tweaking you have been doing you should reapply Loctite. One characteristic of the hydraulic clutch systems is that once adjusted they don't change so if you seem to be having major changes in the operation of the clutch lever (other than cold to hot operation) I'd suspect that the adjustment fasteners are moving due to bike vibration and lack of Loctite. I do take my tiny allen wrenches out on the trail with me but I have not had to make any adjustments in three years of setting up the levers on my bikes. That is why I have not bothered to design the traditional thumb screw adjustments. Why make the lever more expensive? Once set they stay and there is no need for on the fly adjustment like with a cable clutch system.

Nice product with quick delivery